why love pufas?

PUFAs have gained a bad reputation in recent years.

Conventional seed oils are commonly processed with toxic solvents like hexane, and then refined – which separates the oils from their unique matrix of chemical constituents that would otherwise provide protection from environmental exposures. These seed oils are then overconsumed, leading to chronic health issues and systemic inflammation because the omega-3 and omega-6 ratio becomes out of balance in the body.

The issues boil down to: rancidity, toxic processing methods and overconsumption.

Yet upon deeper research of polyunsaturated fatty acids, the benefits of topical use are vast and profound.

Linoleic acid and gamma-linolenic acid are the two primary omega-6 PUFAs. Linoleic acid is actually a constituent of human sebum: our skin naturally synthesizes it. Its primary function is to maintain the skin barrier by holding its moisture and repairing damaged areas. Linoleic acid is non-comedogenic and has actually been shown to unclog pores, making it the perfect fatty acid for the oil cleansing method. Linoleic acid reduces inflammation, improves skin elasticity, protects skin from UV damage and has been shown to be beneficial for acne and hyperpigmentation.

Gamma-linoleic acid is more rare and occurs in smaller amounts in some carrier oils like evening primrose oil, borage oil, black currant seed oil, and hempseed oil. It functions much like linoleic acid with the added benefits of promoting skin cell regeneration and alleviating difficult skin conditions like psoriasis, dermatitis and eczema. GLA can also be taken internally to help with hormone imbalances and metabolism.

The primary omega-3 is alpha linolenic acid (ALA). Topically, ALA modulates the inflammatory response of our skin, prevents dehydration, balances sebum production therefore reducing breakouts, and reduces signs of aging by boosting collagen production.

So what’s missing in the story?

It turns out that when a delicate seed oil is cold processed, unrefined, unfiltered, fresh, and properly stored, it takes on an entirely different character that many folks have never had the chance to experience. Deep, rich hues and intoxicating aromas. Whole plants each possess a supportive matrix of antioxidants, flavonoids and carotenoids that protect the integrity of the fats and also provide incredibly healing properties for our skin.

This is the standard I have for the seed oils that I use in my products. I always store my PUFAs in the refrigerator, use them in a timely manner, and for some oils known to be less stable, I add a 1% organic rosemary co2 extract to further protect the oil.

The current trend of tallow-based skincare, while helpful for certain skin types, may not be the best option long-term. This is because oleic acid, a monounsaturated omega-9 fatty acid, disrupts normal skin barrier function in amounts higher than 10-20% of the overall formula. It is comedogenic, so for sensitive/reactive or oily skin types is likely to cause breakouts. 

I do make a tallow-based face cream that is loved and revered by my mother, who has had her gallbladder removed. For lipid-dry skin types (which are rare, but seem to be more common in those with this surgery, and in postmenopausal women), a higher oleic acid formula can be the holy grail.

When it comes to properly formulating oil-based leave on skin products– especially those meant for the face– there is a delicate balance that must be struck between fatty acids, hydrocarbons, wax esters, and more to create a product that honors the skin’s integrity. 

My “vaseline alternative” balm reflects this meticulous and mathematical process. It rescued me last winter as my skin took a serious beating from the dry heat made by our enormous and powerful wood stove.

The world of fatty acids is fascinating and endless, and there will always be more to discover!